**If you are starting from scratch, this is what your broken down harness will look like. If replacing your old webbing, save yourself the hassle and just cut it off. Your fingers will thank you.**

If configuring pre-assembled, skip to the final fitting section here.

For us, we prefer to use thick polyester with edge guard, so this is what you will see during the assembly process of the waist, shoulders, and crotch.

Remove all hardware, and place in box to easily grab. Trust me when I say things go missing when sliding your harness around.

To determine size of your Left and Right waist lengths, measure the pre-existing harness webbing.

Stock Right Length is 36 inches / 92 cm
Stock Left Length is 39 inches / 101 cm 

Cut longer lengths if you are oversized; you can always trim later.

Add your SQUARE D-RINGS to the webbing, and leave at least 6 in / 15 cm from the end. This will give you enough room to thread on to the sewn glide attached to the lumbar soft plate.

Thread the webbing through the lower lumbar glides respective to the side you are currently working on. DO NOT cross back over toward the square drop yet. 

Leave the webbing in a straight direction to allow for easy adjustment and positioning (as shown in picture)

For steel cylinders, I recommend adding a fixed D-ring (or a sliding) if using deco/stage/bailout. Set up the d-ring forward of your hip bone at about the 2:00 position–assuming your navel is 12:00. 

For an aluminum cylinder configuration, I recommend adding TWO fixed d-rings, or a sliding. When using additional cylinders (3+) in an aluminum configuration, a sliding D-ring will not allow proper cross-clipping (one bolt snap forward, the other toward rear to sandwich cylinders in trim). 

The smaller your waist, the closer the D-rings would need to be due to the diameter of the cylinder. At the very least distance, flip the d-rings toward each other when attached. They should not touch.

For waist size smaller than 33 in / 83 cm, you may end up starting off on the forward d-ring–some cylinder and regulator combinations will cause the rear to rise from the start.

For steel cylinders, I recommend adding a fixed D-ring (or a sliding) if using deco/stage/bailout. Set up the d-ring forward of your hip bone at about the 2:00 position–assuming your navel is 12:00. 

For an aluminum cylinder configuration, I recommend adding TWO fixed d-rings, or a sliding. When using additional cylinders (3+) in an aluminum configuration, a sliding D-ring will not allow proper cross-clipping (one bolt snap forward, the other toward rear to sandwich cylinders in trim). 

The smaller your waist, the closer the D-rings would need to be due to the diameter of the cylinder. At the very least distance, flip the d-rings toward each other when attached. They should not touch. Your forward d-ring will typically be close to buckle. If you are oversized, they will be further away. 

For waist size smaller than 33 in / 83 cm, you may end up starting off on the forward d-ring–some cylinder and regulator combinations will cause the rear to rise from the start.

IMPORTANT!

Route final webbing end back through lumbar glide and lock everything in place. Add an XDEEP Band over the webbing to keep it secured. 

When cutting excess, leave 4 inches / 15 cm. You can always adjust for heavier exposure protection later. 

Number one mistake when people fit harnesses (including Backplates), they cut webbing too short. There are numerous ways to hide extra without impeding performance.