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Bungee & Wing Setup

We’ve finally made it to the last assembly of the Stealth 2.0 System. This part will take some time to get right, so please be patient if you are not accustomed to the system.

There are several ways to setup your bungees, and we will do an expansion section for alternate configrations. In the meantime, this guide will be using LOOP BUNGEES that are fixed, and continuous for your choosing.

Primary reason to use Fixed Bungees: The position of the bungee is fixed (haha?) Seriously though, it will be in the same place, no matter what. You can set it up with a single, or double bungee. 

Primary reason to use continuous:  Under Arm Bungee will remain in the same position either way when a cylinder is properly set up. Knowing that, I prefer continuous as it allows you to move the bungee down to enlarge the arm hole–makes donning/doffing a breeze. To add, your bottom bolt snap on cylinder will fix the forward position of a cylinder. 

Important Things to Consider:

  • Use 6mm (1/4 in) bungee for aluminum and light steel; 8mm (5/16 in) for heavy steels
  • Fixed Bungees require a triglide on the shoulder under your chest D-rings
  • Continuous bungee loops can be added after
  • Need to secure the wing to the harness on the bottom to prevent ballooning
  • Have a set of needle-nose pliers handy
  • If replacing the stock webbing, do not cut it too short before trial dives (see pictures for recommended cut lengths when fitting)
  • Use a proper JET FLAME LIGHTER for 1mm Nylon and/or polyester
  • Sharp Pair of scissors

Securing the Wing to the Harness

Securing the wing to the harness is easy. Where the rear crotch d-ring is located, you’ll find double stitching. Take a pair of pliers, or thicker bungee, and push it through the hole to the other side.

Now, we will connect it to the actual soft plate.

Pass the bungee downward through the hole and secure with a double overhand knot. Click here for a link to tie double overhand knot

Once your first knot is made, you’ll need to put tension on the bungee and repeat on the other side.  

Don’t pull it too tight as you will deform the wing during inflation. This goes with all bungee adjustments.

 

Installing Loop / Under Arm Bungees

The top of your harness has two areas to attach bungees:

1) through the grommet holes;

2) under the grommets on the metal plate bolted in the top of the weight pocket.

When to use grommets vs metal plate?  Grommets are great when diving drysuit, or thick exposure protection; otherwise, use the metal so you don’t feel the bungee. 

Your Stealth 2.0 comes with almost 30 feet / 9 meters of 6mm bungee. For most people, you can cut off two 5 foot / 1.5 meter pieces. You’ll ultimately need less when final fitting and dive occurs; however, we are leaving extra to easily grab underwater by your instructor.

 

Secure the bottom bungee first with double overhand knot. Route through the optimal pass through on the edge of the wing (vertical black sewn section).

The bungee should be parallel to your underarm when passing through.

If using fixed bungee loop configuration, you have to pass the bungee through your ‘fixed point’ first. If you forget, you can always fix it after –assuming you have a triglide on  your shoulder strap.

 

Send the bungee back through the top hole leaving 10 in / 25cm remaining AFTER you tie another double overhand knot.

 *You may opt to pass through two sections as I have to keep the bungee from twisting.*

Whether using grommets  or plate, your knots should be pointed downward with a tail to make easy adjustments. 

Webbing is cheap, don’t try to skimp on initial length.

 

Setting up Continous Loops

You can use paracord, bungee, or fiber braid lines (such as dyneema) to make a loop.

Wrap line around shoulder strap making sure to hold the loop bungee close to the webbing. Tie a simple double overhand knot on to the line itself (as picture in blue). Leave around 1/4 in / 6mm (diameter of bungee) from the edge of the webing. This will allow for the bungee to not bind the shouulder webbing for easy manipulation–slide up and down.

If the shoulder retainer you created is too tight, it will be uncomfortable as the bungee will dig in to your chest.  Too loose, the cylinder may “bounc” as a result of shifting– can also occur if primary bungee loops is too loose.

Setting up Fixed Loops

You can use paracord, bungee, or fiber braid lines (such as dyneema) to make a loop.

Make sure to wrap the cord AROUND the existing arm bungee to keep it secured.

Bend the cord in half, then pass the cord under the webbing, and on top of the additional triglide. Secure with double overhand knot.  This will prevent the cord from sliding out, and trap your arm bungee in position.

Since your d-ring triglide will sit on the clavicle bone, your fixed bungee glide will likely be 4 – 6 in / 10 – 15 cm below–adjust as necessary. You do not want to create an impingement when crossing your arms.

Waist Bungee – Secure Sides of Wing

On each side of the wing you will find two sewn in tabs. These tabs are designed to have bungee go through them and allow for securing the wing tighter to your body.  Feed webbing through the tab, and then feed bolt snap eyelet on to the bungee.

Secure with an overhead know. The diameter of the loop should be around 4 inches / 10cm after knot is secured.

If the bungee is too tight, it will deform the wing and prevent gas from moving up the spine. This also prevents air from filling out sides where heaviest part of the cylinder lies (crown/valve).

On the opposite side, start with a long piece. To determine what size length to cut, wrap bungee around the circumference of your body one time. Where the bungee crosses over on itself; cut there.

Feed bungee through the opposite wing tab and secure with an overhand knot close to the end (leave 2 inch / 5 cm) tag end.

Important consideration to be made is how tight the bungees should be. It is recommended to add a series of knots in the longer side bungee to account for when your BCD is FULL, Half Empty, and Empty. 

Inflate your wing fully, and add your first knot where the bungee loop connects from the right to the left; routed through the crotch strap. The bungee should lay against your body firm, but not digging in.

Next, remove half of the gas from the wing and repeat the same process. Add a second knot where the boltsnap touches the bungee and is held firm against your body. Remember, DO. NOT OVERTIGHTEN when creating these knots. As you add knots, the shorter the overall length becomes.

Do this one last time when the wing is near empty. There should be enough space to attach your double enders directly to the webbing. Cut off final excess leaving enough to use as a ‘pull tab.’

Send the bungee back through the top hole leaving 10 in / 25cm remaining AFTER you tie another double overhand knot.

 *You may opt to pass through two sections as I have to keep the bungee from twisting.*

Whether using grommets  or plate, your knots should be pointed downward with a tail to make easy adjustments. 

Webbing is cheap, don’t try to skimp on initial length.

 

Securing the Low Pressure Inflator

Create a loop of bungee that secures your inflator across your chest. It should be taut (barely stretched) so the inflator does not bounce. As pictured, start with a length of at least of 15 in / 38 cm for your loop.

NOTE: When ordering your Stealth 2.0, makes sure to get the correct corrugated hose length. Stock is 15.75 in / 40 cm in length. the 44cm hose is for those with larger torsos. The inflator should come to at least the midway point on your chest, if not extend a touch further to the right.

We do NOT recommend attaching your inflator with a boltsnap. They do jam, and are unnecessary hardware (in our modest opinion). Keep it simple, and easy to cut.

Create a second loop for your redundant bladder and you can wrap it over the left inflator hose.  See Pictures.

 

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